How to read a Breguet reference number
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Understanding Breguet reference numbers is especially important as their watches often do not have a name to identify them.
They usually consist of three groups of characters, but can contain even more, especially in case of "Haute Joaillerie" pieces, as well as watches set with precious stones of different colors.
For example:
Disclaimer: this information is absolutely not official, is given with no warranty, and might be wrong.
It simply hints at peculiarities I found out at some point in time.
There are also many exceptions, especially in the case of vintage watches, but also in the current catalog,
so it is definitely not to be taken as a hard rule. Thanks for your understanding.
| Case model | Dial | Band | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| generic model number | special features | case metal | / | dial | / | band material | interhorn width | special features? |
| 000 | 0 | AA | / | XX | / | X | X | X |
Note that high numbers are not really related to size or complications.
In case of several codes checking out (i.e. a see-through case-back and a diamond bezel), then there is only one code which is chosen by a predefined order of priority.
| Code | Meaning | Code priority |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | Plain back | Lowest |
| 1 | Articulated dial cover (except for pocket watches) | ? |
| 3 | Special version | ? |
| 5 | "Open worked" full skeletonized dial | Higher than 7 |
| 7 | Transparent case-back (even partial) | Low |
| 8 | Diamonds bezel or cover + diamonds on lugs and sometimes case | Higher than 1 or 7 |
| 9 | Pavé diamond dial + diamond bezel, lugs, case | Highest |
| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| AG | Silver |
| BA | Yellow gold 750/1000 |
| BB | White gold 750/1000 |
| BR | Rose gold 750/1000 |
| PR | platinum 950/1000 and rose gold |
| PT | Platinum 950/1000 |
| ST | Stainless steel |
| TI | Titanium |
The first of the two digits is generally the most important one; the second digit is used to denote anything special with the dial
(like with the Tourbillon model, where the guilloché dial with code 11 which becomes a code 1B when the regular second's hand is replaced with a capital B).
There are so many combinations (especially in the Reine de Naples line-up) that I cannot write them all down; below are the most common.
| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| 00 | No dial (skeleton) |
| 11, 12, 1E or 15 | Silver coated gold guillloché |
| 29 | White enamel |
| 2P | Red enamel |
| 2Y | Blue enamel |
| 32 | Rose gold guilloché |
| 51 | Mother of pearl |
| 59 | Blue mother of pearl |
| 5D | Mother of pearl and diamonds |
| 5T | Tahiti mother of pearl |
| 8D | Mother of pearl and precious stones |
| AS, EU or US | Special codes for the Hora Mundi: Asia, Europe of U.S.A. |
| H2 | Matte black |
| G9 | Blackened gold guilloché |
| J2 | Cobalt blue |
| Z2 | Black rhodium gold guilloché |
This group is omitted in case of a pocket watch.
| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| 3 | Calf leather |
| 5 | Rubber |
| 8 | Satin |
| 9 | Crocodile leather |
| A | Metal bracelet in yellow gold |
| B | Metal bracelet in white gol) |
| R | Metal bracelet in rose gold |
| P | Metal bracelet in platinum |
| S | Metal bracelet in stainess steel |
| T | Metal bracelet in titanium |
| Code | Interhorn size | Sample diameter of watches |
|---|---|---|
| 6 | ? | 30 mm |
| 8 | ? | 35 mm |
| 9 | ? | 40x34 mm |
| V | 20 mm | 37, 38, 39, 40 mm |
| W | 21 mm | 39, 40 mm |
| X | ? | 44, 44.5 mm |
| Y | ? | 48 mm |
| Z (and M) | ? | 41, 42, 43, 44, 45 mm |
Last digit is indecipherable to me. It is a special code which is different depending on the first two digits. It might be used to indicate strap colors, buckle types and metals, etc. but this is only a supposition.